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After all, they were trying to answer one of the great culinary questions of our time: Who makes the best cheesesteak? No food has defined our region more than this double-fisted roll of gusto.Nothing cuts across class lines, or bonds the generations with more unifying power, than a steaming-hot steak "wid" or "widout." (That's wid onions, if you have to ask.) The topic is an endless obsession, from gym locker rooms to the pages of the local media to Steinberg's car every time he and his buddies headed out of school for yet another lunch-period steak adventure. Settling this question (at least once, though probably not for all) is a matter of regional preoccupation and a rite of gastronomic closure for these four friends about to leave for college. Before it was over, the journey would take us more than 110 miles, through two states, 23 steakeries, 65-plus sandwiches and countless hours of challenging digestion. Ever since the first time my dad took me to Geno's, we have shared an incredible bond.

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Ultimately, we judged each restaurant on three sandwiches: a traditional steak with Whiz or American cheese, a specialty steak, and a chicken cheesesteak. In fact, Josh Brawer returned home from our forays so bursting with nuances of the day's investigations that his father - awakening to our project's critical merit – soon wrote me to address the "great chasm" between him and his son.

But how would we know the merely good ones from greatness?

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